The Majesty of Crossing Myanmar on Colonial-Era Trains
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- Published on 01 August 2023
- Written by Chris Humphrey. Photos by Chris Humphrey. .
Whether on the slow train carving its way through the Shan Hills near Kalaw, the Mandalay to Yangon Express, or the 4am train to Hsipaw that crosses the great Goteik Viaduct, traversing Myanmar on gritty, swaying trains is the way to go.
Vignette: On the North-South Train, a Pastiche of the Human Condition
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- Published on 01 August 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Paul Christiansen.
“Heavy with the thick smell of misery and before even leaving the station, the odor of urine would be palpable throughout the car,” writes author Dạ Ngân of the North-South Train in 1989. Back then, a hard seat berth cost nearly a month’s salary and one had to be wary of thieves and sexual assault for the entirety of the jostling journey.
Hẻm Gems: Dì Út Tells Her Family's Indian-Vietnamese Story via Tasty Bò Kho
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- Published on 28 July 2023
- Written by Khang Nguyễn. Photos by Cao Nhân.
The arrival of the rainy season in Saigon has left me craving for hot meals to beat the cold, damp weather. I was on my way home from work in the aftermath of a bout of rain one day and found myself in search of a warm, broth-based afternoon meal. Through the help of Google Maps, I decided to go to a bò kho place only 10 minutes from the office, Bò Kho Dì Út (Auntie Út's Beef Stew).
A Delta Nest in Cao Lãnh Fit for a Solitary Poet
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- Published on 25 July 2023
- Written by Saigoneer.
Who says a single person can't nest?
In Nguyễn Phan Quế Mai's New Novel, Saigon's Rhythms Hum in the Background
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- Published on 22 July 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
“I’m always homesick for Vietnam. To write is to return home. That's why I had to bring Vietnam alive onto the pages. I had to hear the people speak, I had to listen to the music, to the language; I had to smell the food, see the landscape — that's my way of returning home. Whenever I’m homesick, I just return home via my writing.”
An Homage to Rastaclat, the Coolest Bracelets of Our High School Years
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- Published on 21 July 2023
- Written by Khang Nguyễn. Photos by Cao Nhân.
During my teenage years when a lot of us were trying new things, I can remember certain trending items affected our lifestyle. For me, amongst the most memorable was the Hypebeast culture that caught my friends' attention. In high school, many tried to dress like their favorite rappers by mixing sneakers and hoodies with the school uniform. While I was not much of a fashion enthusiast, I did have a personal fascination with Rastaclat bracelets.
Learning to Coexist in Peace Is the First Step to Protect Vietnam's Last Remaining Elephants
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- Published on 21 July 2023
- Written by Govi Snell and Anton L Delgado. Photos by Anton L Delgado.
A trail of enormous footprints, criss-crossing slabs of cracked concrete, lead to a battered ranger station in Vietnam’s Pù Mát National Park. Park staff say the wild Asian elephant that left the tracks is as friendly as it is lonely.
A Simple Americano Goes a Long Way at Quy Nhơn's Lone Coffee Roaster
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- Published on 20 July 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Photo by Alberto Prieto.
Saigon is spoiled with cafes. In addition to the street stalls hawking cheap phin coffee, international chains and charming mom-and-pop shops, the last decade has seen a proliferation of third-wave venues that meticulously source organic beans to roast in small batches and prepare with a wide assortment of gizmos and gadgets.
From Saigon to Đà Lạt: A Tourist's Journey Through Vietnam in 1963
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- Published on 17 July 2023
- Written by Saigoneer.
Old archives of images from 1960s Saigon are easy to come by, but how often does one get to have a peek into the past version of Đà Lạt.
Hẻm Gems: At Bún Thang 50, Unexpected Hanoi Flavors in a Phú Nhuận Corner
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- Published on 14 July 2023
- Written by Elyse Phạm. Photos by Cao Nhân.
When I was growing up in California, every couple of months, plastic containers of sliced fried egg, chicken, and chả lụa would line the kitchen counter. This medley of ingredients would usually mean bún thang for dinner — which, in turn, signaled that the dinner was a special occasion.
Cannes Caméra D'or Winner 'Inside the Yellow Cocoon Shell' to Hit Vietnam Theaters in August
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- Published on 13 July 2023
- Written by Saigoneer.
Following its win at the latest Cannes Film Festival, Bên Trong Vỏ Kén Vàng (Inside the Yellow Cocoon Shell) will officially premiere in theaters across Vietnam next month.
Chiecquanque Breathes Life Into Patchwork to Create Unique Handmade Clothing
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- Published on 12 July 2023
- Written by Đồng Thanh Thủy. Graphic by Tú Võ. Photos courtesy of Chiecquanque.
Chiecquanque is an independent fashion brand presenting clothing items, backpacks and bags that were handcrafted. Each item that the store carries is a one-off creation that exists on its own due to the way they are formed.
A (Non-Exhaustive) Ranking of 10 Vietnamese Queer Movies in History
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- Published on 11 July 2023
- Written by Khôi Phạm. Graphic by Tú Võ.
How would you define a “queer” film?
Ukiyo Concert to Bring Iconic Scores of Makoto Shinkai Movies to Life This July
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- Published on 11 July 2023
- Written by Saigoneer. Images courtesy of 8 the Theatre.
This month, fans of Japanese auteur Makoto Shinkai will have a rare opportunity to watch the soundtracks of his hit movies come alive during three concerts in Saigon and Hanoi.
Ngõ Nooks: Tender Bar Is an Introvert's Haven, Except on Tuesdays
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- Published on 07 July 2023
- Written by Oliver Newman. Photos by Linh Phạm and Tender Bar.
“Just read it and forget it. Then you can write anything you like about Tender Bar. Thank you.”
'Engaging With Vietnam' Conference Ruminates on Heritage in Huế
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- Published on 03 July 2023
- Written by Saigoneer.
“Living with Heritage, (Re)Creating Heritage: Vietnam and the World” is the title of the 14th Engaging with Vietnam conference, a series of activities including academic panel discussions, keynote talks, art installations, music and fashion performances, workshops, curated visits to heritage sites and more.
Vignette: How Bình Định's Nón Ngựa Gave Me Hope for the Tourism Industry
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- Published on 30 June 2023
- Written by Paul Christiansen. Photos by Alberto Prieto.
In 1964, when Đỗ Văn Lan was only 14 years old, a group of American soldiers spent six months at his family’s Bình Định home learning how to make nón ngựa. Once he learned that I am American, he told me this story. More than once.
How Táo Xanh Forum Created a Safe Space for Gay Vietnamese Before Social Media
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- Published on 29 June 2023
- Written by Khang Nguyễn. Graphic by Lê Minh Phương.
Before Vietnamese could hop on social media sites such as Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter to share our hot takes of the week, there was an era of past cybersphere when online forums were the crucial online space to connect local netizens.
Vietnam Officially Extends E-Visa to 90 Days, Allowing Multiple Entries
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- Published on 26 June 2023
- Written by Saigoneer. Photo by Alberto Prieto.
Beginning August 15, tourist visas will be extended from 30 days to 90 days.
Hẻm Gems: The Chuối Nếp Nướng That You Can't Find on Google Maps
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- Published on 22 June 2023
- Written by Hương Lê. Photos by Cao Nhân.
Before the birth of TikTok and food review channels, many Saigoneers already grew up with their own set of staple food gems. As a youngster, I would visit the city's familiar, delicious food stalls with my mom and little brother after a long day at school, snacking on all the desserts and food. Even though many stalls do not exist on Google Maps, thanks to word of mouth, they are always lively and crowded from opening to closing.
