In Vietnam’s history, Saigon has always been a city of dynamic immigration, where people from across the nation arrive every day to seek better opportunities for work, study, and settle down. As Vietnam becomes more open to the world, this attraction has extended to other corners of the globe as well.
In Saigon today, not only can you get a little taste of Vietnam’s most obscure regional cuisines, but at times, even the rarest of world cuisines, right within walking distance or right inside your hẻm. Saigoneer has never taken our city’s spectacularly cosmopolitan food scene for granted, and as we eat our way across town, we are constantly amazed by the culinary wealth of Saigon.
Korean, Japanese, Thai, Indian, and Cantonese restaurants have integrated so well into the local food map that they have become mainstays, but the six Hẻm Gems featured in this list celebrate much rarer cultures that elude even metropolises in countries more developed than Vietnam. We’re very proud Saigoneers to be able to sample their food and spread the words of their brilliance to you, dear readers.
1. Ethiopia | Sara Ethiopian
Ground Floor, B-00.01 Sadora Building, Mai Chí Thọ, An Khánh Ward
Photos by Alberto Prieto.
I first discovered Sara Ethiopian before the pandemic at a basement of a hẻm house in the Bùi Viện area. The titular Sara Alamerew runs the place with her husband Berhanu Demissie, both some of the most effervescent, welcoming people I’ve ever met. After a few years of closure, the place reopened last year at a new location, but the food remains as sublime as ever.
Photos by Alberto Prieto.
The menu presents a glimpse into Ethiopian cuisine with key ingredients that might seem familiar to the Vietnamese palate: chicken stews, vegetable stir-fries, and various cooked grains. However, the preparation and spice usage will surprise and delight anyone with an open mind and adventurous tongue. Absolutely unctuous doro wot — the chicken stew in question — being soaked up by tangy, spongy chunks of injera is a highlight of the meal.
Read our longform review of the place here.
2. Soviet | CCCP
48A Nguyễn Bỉnh Khiêm, Tân Định Ward
Photos by Jimmy Art Devier.
Albeit not part of the Soviet Union, Vietnam maintained a close relationship with the country throughout the 20th century. Many Vietnamese students were sent to the union to train and study and Soviet cultural products were commonly enjoyed in Vietnam during periods when western influences were banned. A small population of Vietnamese today still maintain some nostalgia for the Soviet days, a niche that CCCP can fill neatly.
Photos by Jimmy Art Devier.
Decadent, preserved, and sharply flavored: the Soviet food at CCCP is perhaps the most distant from what the average Vietnamese is used to. The slices of salted pork fat and various types of cured fish will be the most interesting to try here, though if one’s palate is shyer, they can opt for the grilled skewers or medovik, a type of honey cake that’s just rich in every bite.
Read our longform review of the place here.
3. Nigeria | Baby African
965/102/3 Quang Trung, An Hội Tây Ward
Photos by Cao Nhân.
The first time I tried the mesmerizing food of Baby African was 10 years ago, and the fact that it still exists amid today’s pernicious economy is a miracle. Over the past months, more options for Nigerian food have popped up in town, but, having sampled them, I personally think that Baby African is still the OG that tastes the best. It’s such a shame that it’s so, so far away — deep in the suburbs of Gò Vấp. Were the restaurant closer to downtown, I would eat there every week.
Photos by Cao Nhân.
Baby African offers a range of soups and stews typical of West African cuisine, but the shining star is without a doubt jollof rice, followed closely by fufu and egusi. The rice platter comes with a choice of chicken, beef or fish; fried plantain slices; and a slaw. This rice is wondrously flavorful, and I would go as far as claiming that it makes Vietnam’s rice treatments to shame. Because Vietnam produces great rice cultivars, our cuisine focuses on keeping them plain to enjoy with savory dishes, but jollof’s complex and harmonious use of spices elevates the grains to a whole new level.
Read our longform review of the place here.
4. Tibet | Om Momo
11/2 Street No. 57, An Khánh Ward
Photos by Jimmy Art Devier.
In Vietnam, mentions of Tibet often appear in discourses of historical or spiritual natures, but almost never culinary. Luckily, we now have Om Momo to rectify that shortcoming. Founded by creative-turned-restauranteur Tsering Tashi Gyalthang, the place brings a slice of his childhood to a secluded, calming corner of District 2. The menu is fairly comprehensive, but the real treat is its range of fantastic homemade momos. I could go in, order a momo-only meal, and leave happy and sated.
Photos by Jimmy Art Devier.
Momo is a style of dumpling originated from the Himalayan region, including Tibet and Nepal, but has since spread to the Indian subcontinent and abroad. At Om Momo, the dumplings come with different fillings like chicken or beef and a range of colorful sauces — my personal favorites are the lamb dumpling and yellow sauce. For a more memorable experience, order the Tibetan butter tea; think milk black tea, but sugarless, buttery, and a little salty. Om Momo uses cow butter instead of the traditional yak version, which I think is for the best.
Read our longform review of the place here.
5. Indonesia | Ayam Penyet Vindo
24 Điện Biên Phủ, Tân Định Ward
Photos by Nguyên Lê.
If Thai, Malaysian and Singaporean cuisines are relatively well-represented in Vietnam, food from the rest of Southeast Asia is very hard to find. Ayam Penyet Vindo is pretty much the only eatery in Saigon featuring Indonesian cuisine, but luckily, it’s doing a sterling job at representing Indonesia. Started by a Malaysian-Indonesian friend duo, this quaint restaurant focuses on ayam penyet, Indonesia’s national dish of smashed fried chicken slathered with flavorful sambal.
Photos by Nguyên Lê.
Judging from Vindo’s halal menu, Indonesian food is quite similar to what we’re used to in Vietnam, with some spice-forward quirks. The smashed, marinated chicken rice is a must-order, but the menu also has some delightful specials like chicken satay skewers and chicken rendang — both shining examples of how Indonesia manages to combine the richness of peanut and coconut with the zest of aromatics.
Read our longform review of the place here.
6. Egypt | Cleopatra
295 Nguyễn Đình Chiểu, Bàn Cờ Ward
Photos by Alberto Prieto.
While Ammar, the owner of Cleopatra Halal Restaurant, is Egyptian, his place brings to the Saigon food landscape a number of Mediterranean and Western Asia classics. At first, he had another job, but his journey with food was kick-started by nothing other than the COVID-19 lockdown. Stuck at home without a job, Ammar began cooking, initially as a way to save money. He also sent meals to friends, who instantly recognized his talent in the kitchen.
Photos by Alberto Prieto.
Anyone looking for a halal meal in Saigon will be happy here, and those who have sampled Middle Eastern food in the past will feel right at home with Cleopatra’s offers like hummus, falafel, and shawarma. The must-order item on the menu, to me, is the rice with chicken plate. The chicken is grilled to produce crispy skin, though the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, retaining an envious level of juiciness. The rice has absorbed all of the stock, spices and chicken fat, becoming plump separate grains of decadence.
Read our longform review of the place here.
