in Snack Attack

Feeling Peckish at the End of the Work Day? Have a Bánh Chiên, or Two, or Four.

The rainy season is upon us in Saigon. Bouts of rain from ferocious to gentle have helped tempered the searing heat of summer. At one corner of the city, amid the moisture of freshly rained-on atmosphere is the bittersweet caramel scent of sugar syrup bubbling on the stove and of fried dough. It fills me with both nostalgia and a craving for golden, crispy bánh chiên hidden at every market and alley across Saigon.

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

The Shrimps Are to Die for at This Riverside Nhậu Spot on the Outskirts of Saigon

“We eat so many shrimps, I got iodine poisoning,” rapper Pimp C famously proclaimed . But how many shrimps would that requ...

Khôi Phạm

in Dishcovery

Gỏi Khô Bò Lê Văn Tám Connects Generations of Saigoneers Over Papaya Salad

My favorite genre of Saigon food places is most definitely address-less street vendors. With no name, no fixed location, no menu, no contact information, before Google Maps and smartphones, whether you can satisfy your craving for their food purely depended on the strength of your memory (to find them again) and the level of luck the universe bestowed on you that day.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Wake up Early, We're Getting Hủ Tiếu Cá for Breakfast

When I used to live in Hanoi, I always knew that if an eatery only opens for half a day, the food is probably certified, at least by the locals, to be not only good, but excellent. There is something written in the local traditions that specific dishes should be served at particular times of the day.

in Snack Attack

Sugar, Ice, and Everything Nice: On the Mekong Delta's Love for Trà Đá Đường

The pitcher of miền Tây-style sweet tea is like a boat ride taking me away from the exhaustion of the city back to the memories of my hometown amongst the canals of the Mekong Delta.

Khôi Phạm

in Dishcovery

Kem Vi Bổn's Popsicles Anchor 70 Years of Saigon's Summer Memories

Saigoneers have always been blessed with a thriving ice cream scene, perhaps an inevitable perk of living in a city that’s rarely not scorching hot. Amid a thriving scene of inventive gelato and soft serve flavors, one frozen treat place has stood the test of time for nearly 70 years: Kem Vi Bổn.

Paul Christiansen

in Dishcovery

Bình Thạnh’s Best Budget-Friendly Off-Menu Bánh Mì by the Canal

I trust the philosophy that, to find the best places to eat, look for those crowded with locals. Such logic would lead you to Xôi Thị Nghè near the five-way intersection close to Chợ Thị Nghè in the former Bình Thạnh District.

Back Eat & Drink

Paul Christiansen

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Reng Reng, a Welcome as Cold as the Coffee at Hanoi's Most Idiosyncratic Cafe

Reng Reng isn’t a friendly coffee shop.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Old-School 'Take It or Leave It' Nam Dinh Phở in District 3

Pho Dau captures the essence of the Nam Dinh soul food that the owner brought with her to Saigon six decades ago.

in Food Culture

Vietnam Sets Guinness Record for World's Largest Bowl of Instant Phở

Unlike Vietnam's previous food-related stunts, this time the giant food dish didn't go to waste.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Northern-Style Miến Lươn Is a Magical Saigon Breakfast

Mien Luon Cho Ben Thanh was the final destination in my parents’ 20-year quest to find an authentic northern miến lươn in Saigon.

in Food Culture

A Cozy Abode of Bak Kut Teh and Migrant Teochew Gastronomy in the Heart of Saigon

Singaporean Teochew bak kut teh is a seemingly simple broth made with pork ribs that has managed to enamor locals and foreigners for decades.

in Eat & Drink

Take a Tour of Italian Pasta at ‘NAMO

‘NAMO Italian brings authentic flavors and traditions to guests in the heart of Saigon.

in Food Culture

This Ben Tre Tree Nursery Is Offering Durian at VND19,000 Under One Condition: Leave the Seeds Behind

Visitors to the Mekong Delta province can enjoy Durian for just VND19,000 a kilogram.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Steamed Hai Phong Rice Cakes at Banh Beo Cho Do

That the most delicious food in Vietnam is usually found on top of shabby plastic tables is an incontrovertible truth. So much so that modernity has done something strange: we feel skeptical when seei...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Set an Alarm, We're Waking up Early for Dim Sum in D11

According to historical legend, dim sum was created along the ancient Silk Road as a snack for weary travelers to enjoy with their tea while resting. On this day, I felt like I had traversed that fabl...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Inside Le Thanh Ton's Japan Town Lives Saigon's Best Katsu

Inside the unofficial Japanese quarter of Saigon lies scrumptious katsu and oyakodon to suit all palates. For beginners like myself at one point in time, the existence of Fujiro can swing open many ne...

Kit Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Old Hanoi Aesthetics and Durian Milk-Tea at Cafe Minh

Whether a grey-eyed morning or a long-tailed dusk, it makes little difference in Café Minh. The windows, opaque from a history of cigarettes and road dust, barely let in any light. The groan of motorb...

Khoi Pham

in Food Culture

Saigon's Oldest Pre-Doi Moi Relic, Hai Con Tôm Noodles, Is a Living Fossil

You wake up in Saigon in the 1980s in your apartment overlooking the Saigon River. While yawning, you put a dollop of Da Lan toothpaste on a brush. Using a bar of Co Ba soap, you wash yourself up and ...

in Food Culture

[Video] This Thai Duo Make the Weirdest, Most Awkward Food Review Videos. We Love Them.

Thai advertisements are in a completely different league compared to the rest of ours.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Authentic Hai Phong Bánh Đa Cua Right in the Heart of D1

I am a fervent champion of all things noodles.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Piquant Broth and Tangy Snails at Bun Oc Co Hue

There’s nothing fancy about Bun Oc Co Hue. You’ll find makeshift awnings and a leaning mahogany tree outside, and tattered walls and faded floral tiles within. The shop itself is 28 years old, the sam...

in Eat & Drink

New Lunch Menu at East West Spans from Steak French Fry Burritos to Palm Heart Salads, Linking Authentic East and West Cuisines

A grin creeps across the face of East West Brewing Co.’s executive chef Matt Venzke when he recalls the first time he ever had Vietnamese food.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Pandan and Durian Gelato for a Sizzling Summer Day in Saigon

My earliest memory of ice cream in Saigon involves savoring Kem Bach Dang’s renowned kem trái dừa: scoops of coconut ice cream in a coconut husk topped with an assortment of fresh and jammed fruits.

in Food Culture

Shrimp Paste and Fish Sauce: A Brief Primer on Vietnam's Dipping History

It is a well-known fact among Vietnamese that their home country has a rich portfolio of fermented food, from mắm chua (pickled shrimp) to mắm tôm (shrimp paste). Here is a comprehensive look into not...

in Food Culture

American Chef Anthony Bourdain, Who Introduced Bún Chả to Obama, Passes Away at 61

Anthony Bourdain, the chef, writer and travel show host, has passed away at 61.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Tan Binh, VND4,000 Is All You Need for Good Bia Hơi

Bia hơi for the people.