in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Bún Thang 50, Unexpected Hanoi Flavors in a Phú Nhuận Corner

When I was growing up in California, every couple of months, plastic containers of sliced fried egg, chicken, and chả lụa would line the kitchen counter. This medley of ingredients would usually mean bún thang for dinner — which, in turn, signaled that the dinner was a special occasion.

Paul Christiansen

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Vietnam's Only Palestinian Eatery, Eating Maqluba and Dreaming of Peace

“If you have a heart and you have a mind, you must support Palestine,” Saleem Hammad emphasized as we sipped sweet tea overlooking Hanoi’s Old Quarter from the balcony of his restaurant, Oliva. The dinner we had just finished was delicious, but the visit to Vietnam’s only Palestinian restaurant felt more significant than a simple meal. Learning about Saleem’s journey, his personal relationship with Vietnam, and his efforts to deepen ties between Palestine and Vietnam underscored how cuisine can foster cultural exchange and understanding towards peace.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Atop a Beef Bowl Eatery, the Hidden Cozy World of Shochu Bar Mitsuboshi

Looking back at my days in Japan, I cherish most the moments I decided to get lost in yokochos — small and narrow alleys filled with shops, often bars — and push on a random door, not knowing what could await me behind it. It could be a wooden stall illuminated by blinding lights,  its noisy customers showered with beer; or a 19th-century-style Manhattan bar, where the only movements come from trails of smoke off the customers’ cigarettes and streams of light going through bottles of whisky behind the counter.

in Eat & Drink

When Rush Hour Hits, The Straits Offers a Singaporean Alternative

Saigon’s streets snarl with hot, sticky knots of traffic every evening. As people finish their workdays and look ahead to quality time with families at home, precious hours pursuing hobbies and meeting with friends around the city, they must first contend with horrific congestion. This rush hour period, when movement is slow and frustrating, coincides with peak skyline beauty.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tokyo Moon Cafe Introduces Homey Korean Flavors to Japan Town

Stepping into Tokyo Moon is like venturing into a world of wonders, neatly packed within a mere 35-square-meter space.

Văn Tân

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Inside a Modernist Abode, O Phương’s Bún Bò Harks Back to Huế Flavors

“O” is the affectionate way central Vietnamese call their sisters and aunties. For children of Central Vietnam like me, it has taken root in me like the most natural anchor of home. Sometimes when I’m out and about, glimpses of the accent of my hometown would pull me back home.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Canh Hẹ Is Phú Yên's Homage to Chives and the Sea

Ever since I was a kid, I have had a general dislike towards vegetables, but green onion has always been an exception. I regard green onion as a garnish that can lighten up the whole dish, and it seems like whenever it’s absent from my cơm tấm or xôi mặn, I will instantly lose my enthusiasm to eat. But during my teenage years, my affection for scallion was challenged for the first time, when I encountered a photo of Phú Yên’s bánh canh hẹ online.

Khôi Phạm

in Food Culture

Welcome to the New Age of Mass-Produced, Enshittified Plastic Bánh Giò

Do you always remember the first time you tried a new food? With common staples like hủ tiếu, bún riêu or cơm tấm, that might be difficult, but I can recall exactly the first time I had bánh giò: it was from a bike vendor with a very distinctive northern-accented street call of “chưng, gai, bánh giò.”

Back Eat & Drink

in Eat & Drink

Bold, Unabashedly Hipster Brunch at The Other Place

It’s not often that one witnesses the emergence of an entirely new cuisine, but that is precisely what is happening in Australia right now.

Paul Christiansen

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Reng Reng, a Welcome as Cold as the Coffee at Hanoi's Most Idiosyncratic Cafe

Reng Reng isn’t a friendly coffee shop.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Old-School 'Take It or Leave It' Nam Dinh Phở in District 3

Pho Dau captures the essence of the Nam Dinh soul food that the owner brought with her to Saigon six decades ago.

in Food Culture

Vietnam Sets Guinness Record for World's Largest Bowl of Instant Phở

Unlike Vietnam's previous food-related stunts, this time the giant food dish didn't go to waste.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Northern-Style Miến Lươn Is a Magical Saigon Breakfast

Mien Luon Cho Ben Thanh was the final destination in my parents’ 20-year quest to find an authentic northern miến lươn in Saigon.

in Food Culture

A Cozy Abode of Bak Kut Teh and Migrant Teochew Gastronomy in the Heart of Saigon

Singaporean Teochew bak kut teh is a seemingly simple broth made with pork ribs that has managed to enamor locals and foreigners for decades.

in Eat & Drink

Take a Tour of Italian Pasta at ‘NAMO

‘NAMO Italian brings authentic flavors and traditions to guests in the heart of Saigon.

in Food Culture

This Ben Tre Tree Nursery Is Offering Durian at VND19,000 Under One Condition: Leave the Seeds Behind

Visitors to the Mekong Delta province can enjoy Durian for just VND19,000 a kilogram.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Steamed Hai Phong Rice Cakes at Banh Beo Cho Do

That the most delicious food in Vietnam is usually found on top of shabby plastic tables is an incontrovertible truth. So much so that modernity has done something strange: we feel skeptical when seei...

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Set an Alarm, We're Waking up Early for Dim Sum in D11

According to historical legend, dim sum was created along the ancient Silk Road as a snack for weary travelers to enjoy with their tea while resting. On this day, I felt like I had traversed that fabl...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Inside Le Thanh Ton's Japan Town Lives Saigon's Best Katsu

Inside the unofficial Japanese quarter of Saigon lies scrumptious katsu and oyakodon to suit all palates. For beginners like myself at one point in time, the existence of Fujiro can swing open many ne...

Kit Humphrey

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Old Hanoi Aesthetics and Durian Milk-Tea at Cafe Minh

Whether a grey-eyed morning or a long-tailed dusk, it makes little difference in Café Minh. The windows, opaque from a history of cigarettes and road dust, barely let in any light. The groan of motorb...

Khoi Pham

in Food Culture

Saigon's Oldest Pre-Doi Moi Relic, Hai Con Tôm Noodles, Is a Living Fossil

You wake up in Saigon in the 1980s in your apartment overlooking the Saigon River. While yawning, you put a dollop of Da Lan toothpaste on a brush. Using a bar of Co Ba soap, you wash yourself up and ...

in Food Culture

[Video] This Thai Duo Make the Weirdest, Most Awkward Food Review Videos. We Love Them.

Thai advertisements are in a completely different league compared to the rest of ours.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Authentic Hai Phong Bánh Đa Cua Right in the Heart of D1

I am a fervent champion of all things noodles.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Piquant Broth and Tangy Snails at Bun Oc Co Hue

There’s nothing fancy about Bun Oc Co Hue. You’ll find makeshift awnings and a leaning mahogany tree outside, and tattered walls and faded floral tiles within. The shop itself is 28 years old, the sam...

in Eat & Drink

New Lunch Menu at East West Spans from Steak French Fry Burritos to Palm Heart Salads, Linking Authentic East and West Cuisines

A grin creeps across the face of East West Brewing Co.’s executive chef Matt Venzke when he recalls the first time he ever had Vietnamese food.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Pandan and Durian Gelato for a Sizzling Summer Day in Saigon

My earliest memory of ice cream in Saigon involves savoring Kem Bach Dang’s renowned kem trái dừa: scoops of coconut ice cream in a coconut husk topped with an assortment of fresh and jammed fruits.

in Food Culture

Shrimp Paste and Fish Sauce: A Brief Primer on Vietnam's Dipping History

It is a well-known fact among Vietnamese that their home country has a rich portfolio of fermented food, from mắm chua (pickled shrimp) to mắm tôm (shrimp paste). Here is a comprehensive look into not...

in Food Culture

American Chef Anthony Bourdain, Who Introduced Bún Chả to Obama, Passes Away at 61

Anthony Bourdain, the chef, writer and travel show host, has passed away at 61.