Brian Letwin in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Crab Curry Fit for a King
At a glance, this week’s District 4 Hẻm Gem might appear like any typical ốc restaurant in Saigon. Quan Oc 63’s laminated menu offers up no less than 40 dishes within its sticky plastic pages. However...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Nguyen Thuong Hien's Quaint Corner Juice Heaven
In Saigon, when life gives you grapefruits, you create a thriving business to sell its juice to health-conscious locals.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: D1's Bún Mọc Assembly Line
We leave our office in search of District 1’s famed phở áp chảo only to find bún mọc in a hopeless place.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Nguyen Tri Phuong's Chicken Rice Paradise
We promise this will be the last Nguyen Tri Phuong-based Hẻm Gem…for now.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Conquering the Giant Bánh Canh Ghẹ Muối Ớt Xanh of D10
My uncle used to say that you haven't had real crab until you have to cook and dismantle one. For this week’s Hẻm Gem, Saigoneer takes you on a trip to do just that, relishing real crabs by break...
Hẻm Gems: Saigon's Original Bò 7 Món
Going to dinner at Au Pagolac is like going to dinner with family. That is, of course, provided your family spans several generations and also serves its meals in crisp, white button-ups and the occas...
Hẻm Gems: A Cuppa in Saigon's Oldest Cafe
One of the first things Co Suong does when we sit down in the back of her tiny District 3 cafe is bring out the newspaper clippings.
Hẻm Gems: Getting Lost in D3’s Soup Bermuda Triangle
During a busy Thursday lunch hour, my coworker and I commit a soup drive-by.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Ky Dong's 40-Year-Old Phở Gà Oasis
If you’re ever lost in District 3, Ky Dong’s famous phở gà place will be the oasis you need in those trying times.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Lão Hương Thân, One of Saigon's Oldest Cơm Gà Xối Mỡ Restaurants
Is there anything quite as glorious as beautifully done fried chicken?
Hẻm Gems: Bún Sứa Serves Up a Jellyfish Medley Without the Sting
The menu at Bun Sua Co Hanh is geared towards diners with a hankering for seafood, and not just your regular fish and company. They serve something out of the ordinary at this slightly drab river...
Hẻm Gems: Slurping Mì Ốc Hến in District 4 With Công 'the Enforcer'
Shuffling along in flip-flops and a pair of baggy shorts, Công the Enforcer arrives at our table.
[Video] Hẻm Gems: A Long-Anticipated Bowl of D10's Pre-Eminent Duck Noodles
Rarely have I gone into a meal with such anticipation.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: A Trip to the Chessboard for Lang Son’s Sweet and Sour Dry Phở
There’s not much you can say about phở that hasn't already been said. From its complicated origin to its deliciousness to its ubiquity on Saigon’s streets, the subject has been covered ...
Hẻm Gems: Saigon’s Original Bánh Mì Breakfast
I am a lifetime supporter of the sandwich.
Hẻm Gems: Dessert Happy Hour at Quynh Hoa
Just as rush hour traffic starts to pick up around me, motorbikes zipping back and forth down the wide alley, I send a message to my coworker.
Hẻm Gems: Good Bánh Bèo Comes to Those Who Wait
The most memorable eating experiences are the ones that take time. Of all the meals Saigon’s sidewalks can offer, the best require a pilgrimage to some faraway district and a series of trial-and-error...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
[Video] Hẻm Gems: Fish Balls, Curry and Noodle Soup, a Perfect Storm
Some may say that good things in life come when you least expect them, and from my encounter with this week’s Hem Gem – curry fish balls and noodles – you can count me in as a firm believer in this pa...
Brian Letwin in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Enter the Bánh Đúc Jungle
While many of our culinary adventures take us out of our downtown comfort zone, there are a few gems hidden among the office buildings and skyscrapers of District 1.
Hẻm Gems: For Good Phở in Saigon, a Dollar Is All You Need
You can really stretch a dollar in this country. That's two cà phê sữa đá or two bánh mì, a couple liters of bia hơi, a xe ôm ride, a well-bargained souvenir, enough snacks to constitute a meal or a s...
