in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: On Hàng Bài, Golden Bún Cá Thái Bình in a Hole in the Wall

When a friend of mine returned home after living abroad last year, he longed for a bowl of bún cá. I suggested the classic Hanoi dish, with satisfyingly oily deep-fried fish, but he had other ideas — a fresh feast originally from Thai Binh, located almost 100 kilometers from the capital.

in Eat & Drink

From Fine Dining to Comfort Food: Why Chef Thierry Mounon Followed up La Villa with La Fontaine

“Beyond awards or recognition, a restaurant is about welcoming people, creating memories and bringing joy around a table,” explains Chef Thierry Mounon of his decision to expand from French fine dining into comfort food.

in Food Culture

What Cooking Bún Chả for My Birthday Abroad Taught Me About Vietnameseness

“Hot summer night, mid-July, when you and I were forever wild,” Lana Del Rey croons every July 15 to celebrate my birthday. Those melodramatic words consistently evoke three specific elements in my mind: Heineken or Tiger beer cans on the floor; the sweet smoky smell of bún chả and nem enlaced with the rainy air of a darkening Saigon sky; and my friends and family under the LED-lit roof of an iCool karaoke room. Such pillars uphold what I consider the quintessential Vietnamese birthday experience.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Where Fish Sauce and Soy Sauce Are Not Condiments, but Gelato Flavors

Living in central Saigon as a diehard fan of ice cream and all frozen sweets, I fondly remember the late 2010s–early 2020s as the age of abundance. Back in the day, across downtown, there was always a little something for ice cream fans of all preferences.

Govi Snell

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Phở Chay Như, a Banquet of Vegetarian Versions of Iconic Viet Dishes

A bowl full of noodles is one of the things that make me feel lucky to be alive, and alive in Saigon in particular.

in Food Culture

The Unifying Presence of Cái Mâm, Vietnam’s Ubiquitous, Familial Food Tray

An authentic Vietnamese meal cannot be complete without cái mâm. Mâm, a humble, circular food tray, has conducted generations of Vietnamese into a familial ritual for centuries. Once a mâm is set as the centerpiece, knees begin touching knees until the whole family sits cross-legged in a circle. One person pairs up chopsticks from the bundle and distributes them to fellow diners, while another scoops rice into bowls.

in Food Culture

Chợ Bà Hoa Transports Central Vietnam's Universe of Crispy, Funky, Sugary Treats to Saigon

My family lives in Saigon, a long distance from our hometown in Quảng Ngãi. We only visit a few times a year, but each time is a celebration of amazing food: bánh tráng nướng with sausages, bánh gói with spicy, garlicky nước chấm, crispy fried rolls, etc. Without fail, whenever I set food in the city again, I can’t help missing it dearly.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: An Alternative Cơm Tấm From Long Xuyên for Thịt Kho Trứng Fans

When it comes to cơm tấm, most people are familiar with cơm tấm Sài Gòn, featuring grilled pork ribs as the vedette topping. But since the dish’s creation, and as it gained popularity across the Mekong delta and southern Vietnam, another cơm tấm variant emerged alongside cơm tấm Sài Gòn. This version became so cherished by the locals that it was named after its birthplace — cơm tấm Long Xuyên.

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in Food Culture

Vietnam Set to Become World's Top Pork Consumer

Before the next decade is through, Vietnam stands to become the world’s top consumer of pork.

in Food Culture

Foreign Brewers Hope to Tap Into Myanmar Beer Culture

After decades of being closed off to the world, Myanmar’s newfound economic boom is attracting a slew of foreign breweries hoping to cash in on the country’s nascent beer culture.

in Eat & Drink

[Photos] A Midnight Romp Through Saigon’s Wholesale Seafood Market

Around midnight, as most Saigoneers are heading off to bed, District 8’s Binh Dien is the place to be if you’re in search of seafood.

in Eat & Drink

Officials Attempt to Trademark Bún Bò Huế

Officials in Thua Thien-Hue province are causing quite a stir after attempting to enact a regulation that would place trademark restrictions on the province’s signature soup, bún bò Huế.

in Food Culture

Bia Hanoi Makers Suffer Post-Obama Marketing Fail

Three months after President Barack Obama’s historic visit to Vietnam last May, the country’s “Obama fever” seems to have subsided. However, for the folks behind Bia Hanoi, a product of the Hanoi...

in Food Culture

The Rise and Fall of the Great Japanese Unagi

Last weekend, as Vietnam was dealing with a bout of particularly bad weather – we’re looking at you, Typhoon Mirinae – Japan was celebrating a long-held tradition: Doyo no ushi no hi, or the Mids...

in Food Culture

[Video] Meet the Man Behind Singapore’s Michelin-Starred Hawker Stall

Last week, two Singaporean hawker stalls made history by becoming the first-ever Michelin-starred street food establishments.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Saigon’s Original Bánh Mì Breakfast

I am a lifetime supporter of the sandwich.

Michael Tatarski

in Food Culture

Crossing the DMZ: A Visit to Saigon’s North Korean Restaurant

UPDATE: We're sad to announce that as of October 2017, Ryu Gyong has been shuttered permanently, along with a few other North Korean restaurants in Da Nang, Hanoi, and Saigon.

in Eat & Drink

Spice up Your Morning Phở With These Herbs

In the wonderful world of Vietnamese soups, everyone has their preferred set of spices.

Dana Filek-Gibson

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Dessert Happy Hour at Quynh Hoa

Just as rush hour traffic starts to pick up around me, motorbikes zipping back and forth down the wide alley, I send a message to my coworker.

in Food Culture

Vietnam's Wrap & Roll Gets $6.9m Investment From Local Private Equity Firm

Saigon-based private equity firm Mekong Capital just announced a US$6.9 million investment in Vietnamese restaurant chain Wrap & Roll.

in Food Culture

30% of Coffee in Vietnam Has No Caffeine: Survey

If you've been seeking out cà phê sữa đá from street carts for a super-caffeinated start to your workday, you might want to look elsewhere, as there’s a chance you've been drinking coffee-flavore...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Good Bánh Bèo Comes to Those Who Wait

The most memorable eating experiences are the ones that take time. Of all the meals Saigon’s sidewalks can offer, the best require a pilgrimage to some faraway district and a series of trial-and-error...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] Hẻm Gems: Fish Balls, Curry and Noodle Soup, a Perfect Storm

Some may say that good things in life come when you least expect them, and from my encounter with this week’s Hem Gem – curry fish balls and noodles – you can count me in as a firm believer in this pa...

in Food Culture

[Video] Saigoneer x Pasteur Street Brewing Company: The Saigoneer Session

Saigoneer is proud to announce the launch of its creative agency, Unbranded Creative. Our first project is one that has been in the works for over a year: a collaboration with Pasteur Street...

in Eat & Drink

Vinamilk Goes Organic

Vinamilk, Vietnam's largest dairy producer, is going organic.

Brian Letwin

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Enter the Bánh Đúc Jungle

While many of our culinary adventures take us out of our downtown comfort zone, there are a few gems hidden among the office buildings and skyscrapers of District 1.

in Food Culture

The Saga of the Bánh Mì

While Hanoi gets all the credit for phở, touting itself as the birthplace of Vietnam's national dish, Saigon holds the distinct honor of inventing the modern-day bánh mì.

in Eat & Drink

Vietnamese Cafes Take on Global Giants, Emerge Victorious

When Starbucks first opened its doors in Vietnam in 2013, a slight panic was in the air. From abroad, news outlets wondered whether the global coffee giant could adapt to Vietnam's unique coffee ...