
The History of Hanoi's Lost Tramway Network
When they first drew up plans for a citywide tramway network in 1894, it seemed as though the Hanoi authorities would follow Saigon’s example by opting for steam traction. Yet, by the time government approval was forthcoming in 1899, advances in technology made it possible to construct the entire system as a state-of-the-art, one-meter gauge electric tramway.

Wander Through the Streets of the Old Quarter in 1995 Hanoi
What do you miss most about the 1990s?

Tân Định Market, D1's Nearly 100-Year-Old Trading Hub
Originally known as the marché de Phu-Hoa, Tân Định Market at 1 Nguyễn Hữu Cầu in District 1 is one of the city’s most historic markets, but it was the opening of the stylish French market building of 1927 which brought it to worldwide attention.

From Vauban Citadel to Modernist Icon: The History of Turtle Lake
The area of Công Trường Quốc Tế and Turtle Lake (Hồ Con Rùa) has been through many changes both in design and function throughout the history of Saigon. First, it housed a gate for a Nguyễn-dynasty citadel, then the land was flattened for a water tower in accordance with a new urban plan by the French colonial government, and finally, the square became a diplomatic display for past allies of the previous regime.

How Nhà Thờ Tân Định, Saigon's Iconic Pink Church, Came to Be
You just have to mention the “pink church” and everyone knows which one you mean. But few are aware that the building in question — Tân Định Church — is one of Saigon’s oldest and most important Roman Catholic institutions.

From Swampland to Heartland: The History of Bến Thành Market
From the very first discussions in 1868 regarding a new marketplace for Saigon, it was not until 1914, that Bến Thành Market became a reality. The birth of the market was like a dream come true, one that came together after nearly five decades of debate in search of solutions for the city’s infrastructure woes.

A Brief History of District 1's Collège d’Adran, Saigon's Oldest School
Driving past the Saigon Zoological and Botanical Garden toward Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh Street, many of us might not notice the presence of Võ Trường Toản Secondary School and Trưng Vương High School. The two institutions once belonged to one single entity, Collège d’Adran, which many historical sources deem the oldest school in Saigon.

The Story of Quách Đàm, the Man Who Shaped Modern Chợ Lớn — Part 2
By the 1920s, the old Bình Tây Market and much of the surrounding land had belonged to Quách Đàm, so he proposed to the colonial authorities the demolition of the existing building and the construction, “on an area of not less than 9,000 square metres,” of a new and much larger Bình Tây Market, to serve as the new central market of Chợ Lớn. This is Part 2 of our miniseries on the origin story behind Chợ Lớn. Read Part 1 here.

[Photos] A Bird's-Eye View of 1930 Hanoi
Now that the age of drones has dawned upon us, cityscapes are easily captured from above.

The City as Text: Chợ Trời and the Representation of an Invisible Hanoi
Despite being the largest marketplace in the city since the 1950s, and still the oldest temporary market in town, Troi Market (chợ Trời) doesn't appear in delightful pieces of literature or art like t...

Street Cred: The Fame and Shocking Death of Cải Lương Icon Thanh Nga
Fame, murder, sex and music — this story has it all.

Vauban Architecture: The Foundation of Central and Northern Vietnam's Citadels
Let's get historical.

A Brief Primer on Vice and Sex Trade in Colonial Vietnam
War loves sex. Sex loves war.

[Photos] Inside the Back-Breaking Mining Operations of Bac Kan Under French Rule
Bac Kan Province in northern Vietnam is the country’s least-populous locality, with just over 300,000 people, but it has an abundance of metal veins, the mining of which dominates the local economy.

[Photos] The Retro Artistry of Vietnam's Hand-Drawn Song Sheet Covers
Does a song have a color?

[Photos] 20 Rare Black-and-White Photos of 1948 Saigon by Jack Birns
"Photography takes an instant out of time, altering life by holding it still." — Dorothea Lange

A Personal History of Hồ Tây: Romance, Colonial Rule and Subsidy-Era Fishing Heists
My father-in-law has spent decades visiting Hồ Tây (West Lake). His personal story both contrasts and reflects Vietnam's history as a whole and, as a result, offers a profound insight into the im...

[Photos] Amble Through Saigon’s Markets and Pagodas in 1965–1966
The photo series was taken by Thomas W. Johnson, a chaplain assistant working at the US 3rd Field Hospital in Saigon in the 1960s.

[Photos] Rare Black-and-White Images Showcase Vung Tau's Calm in the 1960s
Towns are never settled, their characters forever suffering wanderlust.

[Photos] Over 100 Years of Hanoi's Historic Opera House
There are some among the population who remember, with rose-tinted glasses, the days before coronavirus began ravaging countries across the globe. Many also remember Hanoi’s Opera House, particularly ...

[Photos] Building the City: Snapshots of Saigon in the Late 1960s
Buildings play a significant role in shaping how we see and navigate Saigon — the Notre-Dame de Paris gives us a sense of belonging to history while modern high-rises can feed our dreams of grandeur a...

[Photos] Into the Wilderness of Saigon in 1867
Before “southern Vietnam,” there was Cochinchina; before Saigon, there wasn’t much of anything but vast stretches of tropical jungle and mosquito-infested swamps.

Unearthed: Tracing the Past Citadels of Southern Vietnam
Although the forces of modernization encourage constant progress and leaving behind the pre-modern past, the trails of yesterday never fail to leave our presence.

[Photos] Cho Lon's First-Ever Post Office, as Seen in the 1920s
Located at the junction of Hai Thuong Lan Ong, Chau Van Liem and Cha Va Bridge in today’s Saigon, the post office of District 5 is a well-known landmark in the mind of denizens living in the area. Not...

[Photos] Remarkable Color Photos Document Life in Japan Over 100 Years Ago
Even a century ago, Japan was a little weird.

Street Cred: Dauntless Antiwar Icon Nguyen Thai Binh and His Tragic Death
If one were to see the streets of Vietnam as a tangled network of people whose names they took, every city would resemble a messy collection of historical fragments.

[Photos] Views of 1954 Saigon-Cho Lon From a USS Rochester Sailor
The USS Rochester CA-124 was a heavy cruiser that was first launched after World War II.

Part of Historic Building, Meant to Be Preserved, Destroyed After Miscommunication
Part of a historic building, meant to be saved from demolition and recognized as a heritage site, has been bulldozed thanks to a miscommunication.