in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Bún Thang 50, Unexpected Hanoi Flavors in a Phú Nhuận Corner

When I was growing up in California, every couple of months, plastic containers of sliced fried egg, chicken, and chả lụa would line the kitchen counter. This medley of ingredients would usually mean bún thang for dinner — which, in turn, signaled that the dinner was a special occasion.

Paul Christiansen

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Vietnam's Only Palestinian Eatery, Eating Maqluba and Dreaming of Peace

“If you have a heart and you have a mind, you must support Palestine,” Saleem Hammad emphasized as we sipped sweet tea overlooking Hanoi’s Old Quarter from the balcony of his restaurant, Oliva. The dinner we had just finished was delicious, but the visit to Vietnam’s only Palestinian restaurant felt more significant than a simple meal. Learning about Saleem’s journey, his personal relationship with Vietnam, and his efforts to deepen ties between Palestine and Vietnam underscored how cuisine can foster cultural exchange and understanding towards peace.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Atop a Beef Bowl Eatery, the Hidden Cozy World of Shochu Bar Mitsuboshi

Looking back at my days in Japan, I cherish most the moments I decided to get lost in yokochos — small and narrow alleys filled with shops, often bars — and push on a random door, not knowing what could await me behind it. It could be a wooden stall illuminated by blinding lights,  its noisy customers showered with beer; or a 19th-century-style Manhattan bar, where the only movements come from trails of smoke off the customers’ cigarettes and streams of light going through bottles of whisky behind the counter.

in Eat & Drink

When Rush Hour Hits, The Straits Offers a Singaporean Alternative

Saigon’s streets snarl with hot, sticky knots of traffic every evening. As people finish their workdays and look ahead to quality time with families at home, precious hours pursuing hobbies and meeting with friends around the city, they must first contend with horrific congestion. This rush hour period, when movement is slow and frustrating, coincides with peak skyline beauty.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Tokyo Moon Cafe Introduces Homey Korean Flavors to Japan Town

Stepping into Tokyo Moon is like venturing into a world of wonders, neatly packed within a mere 35-square-meter space.

Văn Tân

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Inside a Modernist Abode, O Phương’s Bún Bò Harks Back to Huế Flavors

“O” is the affectionate way central Vietnamese call their sisters and aunties. For children of Central Vietnam like me, it has taken root in me like the most natural anchor of home. Sometimes when I’m out and about, glimpses of the accent of my hometown would pull me back home.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bánh Canh Hẹ Is Phú Yên's Homage to Chives and the Sea

Ever since I was a kid, I have had a general dislike towards vegetables, but green onion has always been an exception. I regard green onion as a garnish that can lighten up the whole dish, and it seems like whenever it’s absent from my cơm tấm or xôi mặn, I will instantly lose my enthusiasm to eat. But during my teenage years, my affection for scallion was challenged for the first time, when I encountered a photo of Phú Yên’s bánh canh hẹ online.

Khôi Phạm

in Food Culture

Welcome to the New Age of Mass-Produced, Enshittified Plastic Bánh Giò

Do you always remember the first time you tried a new food? With common staples like hủ tiếu, bún riêu or cơm tấm, that might be difficult, but I can recall exactly the first time I had bánh giò: it was from a bike vendor with a very distinctive northern-accented street call of “chưng, gai, bánh giò.”

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in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Chocolate Coconut Smoothies @ Le Thi Rieng Smoothies

On a hot night of street food hunting, it was time for a pit stop, one that would not only satisfy our thirst, but also our sweet tooth.

in Food Culture

Da Lat Coffee Now Sold at Starbucks Stores Worldwide

Starbucks is now offering up bags of single-origin Da Lat coffee at its stores in 56 countries, the first time the company has stocked an Arabica coffee from Vietnam.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Meet Saigon’s "Other" Lunch Lady

Following years of international coverage from food bloggers and personalities such as Anthony Bourdain, Ms. Nguyen Thi Thanh, Saigon’s “lunch lady” has officially gone mainstream.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Legendary Coconut Milk @ Sữa Dừa 8 Tin

After a visit to Sữa Dừa 8 Tin, you’ll quickly find that not all coconut milk is created equal.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Bò Nhúng Dấm @ Anh Ba

At Anh Ba, it’s all about the beef. This eatery offers up four bovine dishes - lá lốp (beef wrapped in lolot leaves), mỡ chài (beef quasicrepinettes), nhúng dấm (vinegar based hot pot) and tái chanh (...

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

[Video] The Story of a Saigon Chè Master

Saigoneer has teamed up with Only In Saigon to bring you stories from the city’s streets. Our first episode explores the tale of Son, a District 1 chè vendor who, for 25 years, has maintained thi...

in Food Culture

Will Saigon's Street Food Scene Last Another Generation?

According to a recent article in The Guardian, while Vietnamese street food is “imitated, fetishized, and replicated in cities all over the western world,” for many vendors, their profession is a mean...

in Food Culture

A Chat With The Organizers Of The Outcast’s Farmers Market

Saigon’s only farmers market is gearing up for its second installment at Saigon Outcast this Sunday. We sat down with the organizers (Saigon Outcast and La Holista) to see why they started the market,...

in Food Culture

[Video] How To Make: Bánh Nậm

When we order bánh thập cẩm at our Hue standby, Rất Huế (136/11 Lê Thánh Tôn), one of the highlights is bánh nậm, gelatinous rice with minced shrimp wrapped in a banana leaf.

in Food Culture

How To Make A Fresh Phở Noodle Salad In 15 Minutes

When most people talk about Vietnamese food, they immediately think about a delicious steaming bowl of phở.

in Food Culture

Is the World's Best Banh Mi Found in Hanoi?

Vice’s food-focused arm, Munchies, recently profiled banh mi in Hanoi and presented a set of sandwiches that made us tremble with jealousy. While we’re neither accredited banh mi connoisseurs nor freq...

in Food Culture

[Video] Samurai Isao Machii Is A Real Life Fruit Ninja

In this SoftBank commercial, modern samurai, Isao Machii, is attacked by three assassins – an orange, a fried shrimp and a glowing ball.

in Food Culture

How To Make The Perfect Gỏi Cuốn

On a hot summer day, nothing feels better than eating something light and crisp. Here's a recipe for Gỏi Cuốn (Summer Rolls) with an unconventional twist.

in Food Culture

[Video] Would You Take On This Phở Burger?

A few months ago, Youtuber Richie Le uploaded a video of the phở burger, a natural follow-up to the phở burrito, the phở cocktail and the phở dumpling.

in Food Culture

[Video] Phở Has Never Looked So Beautiful

This short clip, "Mrs Phở," is the work of Tung Pham, a second year student at Lasalle College of The Arts in Singapore.

in Food Culture

Saigon Ranked Among World’s Ideal Cities for Vegans and Vegetarians

When On Earth, a Buzzfeed-style travel website, has ranked Saigon among the world’s ideal cities for vegan and vegetarian travelers.

Brian Letwin

in Food Culture

[Video] Watching A Master Noodle Maker Do His Work Is Absolutely Mesmerizing

The beauty of art is that it is all relative and often transcends traditional mediums. One such exception are the handmade noodles made by soba master Tatsuru Rai, owner and chef of Sobatei Rakui...

in Food Culture

[Video] How To Make Bánh Chưng

Though particularly popular during Tet, bánh chưng is available all year long from street vendors who sell them off the back of their bicycles. If you ever wanted to try your hand at the dish or you’r...

in Food Culture

Saigon Bakery Finds A Hit With Ginormous Bánh Mì

We’ve seen plenty of crazy spins on Vietnamese food, from phở cocktails to street side duck tacos. However, one Saigon bakery has found success by simply supersizing a popular Vietnamese sta...

in Food Culture

[Photos] Coffee Shop On Wheels: Inside Hanoi’s New “Bus Café”

Vietnam’s ever-evolving coffee culture has produced a number of unique offerings, from sock-brewed coffee to tree house cafés. In Hanoi, a group of young entrepreneurs has taken a completely different...