Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Indonesia's Ayam Penyet Is a Smashing Celebration of Spices
The most straightforward definition by which to explain ayam penyet to the Vietnamese layperson is perhaps “cơm gà Indo.” It’s technically not wrong: the dish has rice and chicken, and originates from Indonesia. But once you've actually sunk your teeth into this special fried chicken, the translation seems unfairly reductive because ayam penyet is so much better than the sum of its parts.
Ngõ Nooks: At Bún Bò Huế Thu Thùy, a Broth That Bridges Hanoi Taste and Huế Flair
In only three places have I enjoyed truly sumptuous bowls of bún bò giò heo: in its hometown of Huế, in Hội An and at Bún Bò Huế Thu Thùy in Hanoi.
Hẻm Gems: Go Back in Time to Chợ Cũ's Golden Days via Cô Chánh's Hủ Tiếu Mì
In the memory-scape of children growing up in the countryside like me, there always exists the familiar sight of old wet markets and the mornings we spent there, toddling behind our moms on the hunt for snacks, CDs, and lollipops. In the afternoons, I often tagged along with my grandma to buy meat and veggies, sneaking a toy or two inside her basket. Sometimes, if I was particularly sweet, she would allow us to have lunch there instead of at home.
How Soy Milk Symbolizes an Imagined Vietnam of My Childhood in France
I still remember vividly the anticipation running through my veins, when I saw a waiter bringing me a glass of sữa đậu nành, every time my family took me to one of the many Vietnamese restaurants of the 13th arrondissement of Paris, the city’s renowned Chinatown. It was a neighborhood I was bound to get dragged to as a French kid with a Vietnamese parent, whether I wanted to or not. For me, this glass represented the quintessence of typical Vietnamese drinks during a good meal: one of the rare glimpses into the daily customs of my ancestors’ culture.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: At Sara Ethiopian Restaurant, a Chicken Stew for the Soul
Before the existence of Sara Ethiopian Restaurant in Saigon, my knowledge about the African country could fit squarely in a child’s palm: its capital, Addis Ababa; the tragic Ethiopian Airlines crash in March; and its national dish, injera.
An Homage to Mỳ Quảng and Its Branching Family Tree Across Vietnam
Mỳ Quảng’s reputation has spread across Vietnam and even abroad, yet few are well-informed about its origin story and the land it hailed from.
Hẻm Gems: At Bún Thang 50, Unexpected Hanoi Flavors in a Phú Nhuận Corner
When I was growing up in California, every couple of months, plastic containers of sliced fried egg, chicken, and chả lụa would line the kitchen counter. This medley of ingredients would usually mean bún thang for dinner — which, in turn, signaled that the dinner was a special occasion.
Paul Christiansen in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks
Ngõ Nooks: At Vietnam's Only Palestinian Eatery, Eating Maqluba and Dreaming of Peace
“If you have a heart and you have a mind, you must support Palestine,” Saleem Hammad emphasized as we sipped sweet tea overlooking Hanoi’s Old Quarter from the balcony of his restaurant, Oliva. The dinner we had just finished was delicious, but the visit to Vietnam’s only Palestinian restaurant felt more significant than a simple meal. Learning about Saleem’s journey, his personal relationship with Vietnam, and his efforts to deepen ties between Palestine and Vietnam underscored how cuisine can foster cultural exchange and understanding towards peace.
Khôi Phạm in Dishcovery
Naengmyeon, the Korean Cold Noodles to Ward Off the Heat of Summer
As Saigon inches towards the hottest months of the year, I find myself shying away from steaming hot soups while craving a little cooling treat to ward off the heat. Luckily for Saigon’s foodies, Dist...
Hẻm Gems: Tân Định's Tried-and-True Bánh Canh Cua for a Late Breakfast
Bánh canh, at times described as Vietnamese udon or even “mouse-tail noodles,” is a great mystery on its own. Etymologically speaking, bánh canh translates to “soup-cake,” and these thick, cylindrical...
Hẻm Gems: In Warmth and Good Drinks, an Amiable Cafe's Spirit Lives On
How would you feel if everything about your favorite spot suddenly changed one day? Would the same attachment still stand? Those were the questions that popped into my head the afternoon I paid my vis...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Curry Shika and Nearly 2 Decades of Making Memories in Saigon
Unlike a normal human, there is a chance that my body is not 70% water, but 70% curry; and a good 50% of that might actually be Japanese curry.
Uyên Đỗ in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: In Saigon, Go Mô Rứa for a Well-Crafted Huế Culinary Feast?
In the Huế dialect, mô rứa is a phrase one might encounter often in daily conversation. When a Huế resident asks “Mi đi mô rứa?” they might be wondering where you’re heading.
Khôi Phạm in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The Dream of the 2010s Is Alive at Pacey Cupcakes
Pick your favorite cupcake flavor; perhaps a pitcher of hot fragrant tea too. Ascend the dizzyingly steep flight of stairs. Mind your head. Tread gently on the wooden attic floor. There your friends a...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: In D6, Oyster Omelette, Porridge and Bột Chiên for the Soul
“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster,” satirist Jonathan Swift wrote in the 1700s. Famously fearful of the now-prized bivalves, Swift eventually grew to appreciate their briny, ocean-forward es...
What We Talk About When We Talk About Tết Snacks
While Tết is filled with many traditions, perhaps nothing is more central to the holiday than the food that families prepare and share together.
Tam Le in Ănthology
A Tale of Two Rượus
The first time I bought rượu, it was from Lang Giang, my tour guide in Sa Pa. We were staying in a Red Dao village known for its rice liquor production, and that night I received three water bottles, ...
US Eatery Targeted by Angry Reviewers for Providing Raw Beef With Takeaway Phở Tái
Customers ordering phở tái to go were confused to receive raw beef, not understanding they were expected to cook it, and responded with cruel reviews.
A Feast for Your Eyes, Ears and Soul in Culinary Frank's ASMR Cooking
Based in Melbourne, a Vietnamese chef-turned-YouTuber has been cooking up a delicious storm of homey dishes and global cuisines imbued with ASMR, inspiring home cooks to go on culinary adventures in t...
Ngõ Nooks: A Salted Coffee in Gạt Tàn Is Not What It Sounds Like
Is it not just the weirdest combination ever, coffee and salt?
Paul Christiansen in Food Culture
How a Vietnamese Food Stylist Puts 'the Bling Bling' on Bánh Chưng
“When people know what they are doing, they bring food to life,” says Thu Pham Buser, a New York-based food stylist of her profession.
Uyên Đỗ in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: One Bowl, Two Noodle Dishes, and Heaps of Hometown Glory
On the slope connecting Binh Thanh and Phu Nhuan districts lives a small pocket of Quang Nam culinary spirits — in the form of “two-in-one” noodles.
Tam Le in Ănthology
The Vietnamese Man Who Makes America's Most Sought-After Tofu
Twenty years ago in America, tofu was considered, at best, a bland, tasteless, hippie meat replacement, and at worst, a dangerous, highly processed food product that would allegedly cause men to grow ...
Ngõ Nooks: Kosmos Serves Carefully Made Drinks With a Side of Human Connection
“Do you know the difference between ‘Universe’ and ‘Cosmos’?” Linh, Kosmos' owner and barista, asks me.
Paul Christiansen in Snack Attack
What's the Deal With Cơm Tấm-Flavored Potato Chips?
A quirky legend surrounds the invention of the potato chip, and its identity has only gotten odder over the years.
Ngõ Nooks: At Đống Đa's Gác Miên Cafe, a Midsummer's Dream
“Gác" means attic, but “Miên,” on the other hand, is something almost untranslatable, simply because there is no word in English that can fully encapsulate its essence.
Hanoi Allows Restaurants, Cafes to Reopen at 50% Capacity
Starting today, patrons can visit their favorite restaurants and cafes again.
5 Hanoi Eateries to Try Today, the Saigoneer List
During the recent stretch of social distancing restrictions, we at Urbanist Hanoi felt like real adults because most of our money went to kitchen appliances, instead of eating out like before. Still, ...
