Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Indonesia's Ayam Penyet Is a Smashing Celebration of Spices

The most straightforward definition by which to explain ayam penyet to the Vietnamese layperson is perhaps “cơm gà Indo.” It’s technically not wrong: the dish has rice and chicken, and originates from Indonesia. But once you've actually sunk your teeth into this special fried chicken, the translation seems unfairly reductive because ayam penyet is so much better than the sum of its parts.

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Bún Bò Huế Thu Thùy, a Broth That Bridges Hanoi Taste and Huế Flair

In only three places have I enjoyed truly sumptuous bowls of bún bò giò heo: in its hometown of Huế, in Hội An and at Bún Bò Huế Thu Thùy in Hanoi.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Go Back in Time to Chợ Cũ's Golden Days via Cô Chánh's Hủ Tiếu Mì

In the memory-scape of children growing up in the countryside like me, there always exists the familiar sight of old wet markets and the mornings we spent there, toddling behind our moms on the hunt for snacks, CDs, and lollipops. In the afternoons, I often tagged along with my grandma to buy meat and veggies, sneaking a toy or two inside her basket. Sometimes, if I was particularly sweet, she would allow us to have lunch there instead of at home.

in Food Culture

How Soy Milk Symbolizes an Imagined Vietnam of My Childhood in France

I still remember vividly the anticipation running through my veins, when I saw a waiter bringing me a glass of sữa đậu nành, every time my family took me to one of the many Vietnamese restaurants of the 13th arrondissement of Paris, the city’s renowned Chinatown. It was a neighborhood I was bound to get dragged to as a French kid with a Vietnamese parent, whether I wanted to or not. For me, this glass represented the quintessence of typical Vietnamese drinks during a good meal: one of the rare glimpses into the daily customs of my ancestors’ culture.

Khôi Phạm

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Sara Ethiopian Restaurant, a Chicken Stew for the Soul

Before the existence of Sara Ethiopian Restaurant in Saigon, my knowledge about the African country could fit squarely in a child’s palm: its capital, Addis Ababa; the tragic Ethiopian Airlines crash in March; and its national dish, injera.

in Snack Attack

An Homage to Mỳ Quảng and Its Branching Family Tree Across Vietnam

Mỳ Quảng’s reputation has spread across Vietnam and even abroad, yet few are well-informed about its origin story and the land it hailed from.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Bún Thang 50, Unexpected Hanoi Flavors in a Phú Nhuận Corner

When I was growing up in California, every couple of months, plastic containers of sliced fried egg, chicken, and chả lụa would line the kitchen counter. This medley of ingredients would usually mean bún thang for dinner — which, in turn, signaled that the dinner was a special occasion.

Paul Christiansen

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: At Vietnam's Only Palestinian Eatery, Eating Maqluba and Dreaming of Peace

“If you have a heart and you have a mind, you must support Palestine,” Saleem Hammad emphasized as we sipped sweet tea overlooking Hanoi’s Old Quarter from the balcony of his restaurant, Oliva. The dinner we had just finished was delicious, but the visit to Vietnam’s only Palestinian restaurant felt more significant than a simple meal. Learning about Saleem’s journey, his personal relationship with Vietnam, and his efforts to deepen ties between Palestine and Vietnam underscored how cuisine can foster cultural exchange and understanding towards peace.

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Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: R House, a Haven for Rescued Dogs, Healthy Eats, and Adoption Opportunities

For dogs, dog owners and general fans of man's best friend, living in Saigon can be tough.

in Eat & Drink

A Journey through Spanish Flavors at Ria

Not long ago, one could count the number of Spanish eateries in Saigon on a few fingers.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Can Deep-Fried Hột Vịt Lộn Dethrone the Classic?

Has your luck taken a turn for the worse lately? Perhaps it’s high-time for a hột vịt lộn (or three) to reverse your fortune.

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

In Search of Charming Cafes Along Saigon's Train Alleys

Compared to Hanoi’s now-restricted Phung Hung “Train Street,” the neighborhoods bordering the railway in Saigon have neither the romanticism nor goosebumps-inducing adrenaline rush that turned the for...

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Lower Your Voice, the Hidden Elephant Is Reading

In Saigon’s indie cafe scene, there are household names and well-kept secrets; and then there are secrets that one might think are well-kept, but are actually household names. 

in Food Culture

Remembering Anthony Bourdain and His Passion for Southeast Asian Food

Anthony Bourdain meant many things to many people. 

Paul Christiansen

in Snack Attack

The Delectable Desserts to Satisfy Your Craving This Durian Season

If I were ever to believe in a generous god, the existence of durian would be the first piece of evidence I cite.

in Eat & Drink

Upscale Fusion Fare Mingles with Japan’s Izakaya Culture at NOMU

What exactly is fusion food?

in Food Culture

Saigon's Famous 'Lunch Lady' Set to Open in Canada

With help from the Lunch Lady herself, a team of restauranteurs in Vancouver is opening a dining establishment inspired by the humble Saigon street food stall made famous by the late Anthony Bourdain....

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: In Praise of D1's Cheap, Dependable Sidewalk Cơm Trưa

In these trying times, the comfort of familiarity goes a long way.

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Handmade Noodles Hidden Amid the Mayhem of Hang Xanh

The traffic-choked wastelands of Hang Xanh are one of the last places you'd expect to find an incredible meal of noodles.

Khoi Pham

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: The Refreshing Simplicity of Veggies, Roots and Mushrooms

Explaining the food at Rau Củ Nấm Vegan Restaurant is simple; it’s all in the name: vegetables, tubers, and mushrooms.

in Eat & Drink

Saigon’s Culinary Diversity on Display at Kiba

Like a giddy child excited to show off his new toys, Chef Pedro Goizueta spread seed packages across a table on Kiba’s breezy terrace.

Michael Tatarski

in Food Culture

One's Expired Craft Beer Is Another's Hand Sanitizer Ingredient

Amid the relentless pace of upsetting news related to the coronavirus pandemic, bright spots of ingenuity and compassion have shone through.

in Food Culture

[Photos] A Saigon Studio Made 'Cơm Tấm' Out of Discarded Styrofoam and Sponges

Are you tired of your trash looking plain-ol' trashy and your food too temporal and foody? 

in Food Culture

Afro Mini Mart: What's Inside Vietnam’s First African Grocery Store?

At first glance, it looks just like any other convenience store. The same strings of Oishi shrimp snacks and revolving wire rack of Orion Marine Boys adorn either side of its entrance, just as they do...

in Hanoi Ngõ Nooks

Ngõ Nooks: Sumptuous Vegetarian Ramen in a Quiet Truc Bach Hideaway

If you’ve ventured to the land of ramen, it’s likely you have a Japan hangover. Vege-ro’s authentic, rich meals could, for a while at least, help you recover.

Govi Snell

in Food Culture

[Illustrations] A Playful Look Into Vietnamese Ingredients by Lucia Pham

Lucia Pham has created a set of four illustrations of Vietnamese cuisine featuring whimsical, personified ingredients. 

Michael Tatarski

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: Piquant Thai Noodles in D7 for the Age of Takeout

It's the simple things in life that sometimes bring the greatest pleasure.

Thi Nguyen

in Saigon Hẻm Gems

Hẻm Gems: At Sadec Quan, a Celebration of Mekong Delta Noodles

While bánh tằm is more often regarded as a popular street food dish in the Mekong Delta, my entrance to the world of this dish was family gatherings in Saigon.