
Feeling Peckish at the End of the Work Day? Have a Bánh Chiên, or Two, or Four.
The rainy season is upon us in Saigon. Bouts of rain from ferocious to gentle have helped tempered the searing heat of summer. At one corner of the city, amid the moisture of freshly rained-on atmosphere is the bittersweet caramel scent of sugar syrup bubbling on the stove and of fried dough. It fills me with both nostalgia and a craving for golden, crispy bánh chiên hidden at every market and alley across Saigon.

The Shrimps Are to Die for at This Riverside Nhậu Spot on the Outskirts of Saigon
“We eat so many shrimps, I got iodine poisoning,” rapper Pimp C famously proclaimed . But how many shrimps would that requ...

Gỏi Khô Bò Lê Văn Tám Connects Generations of Saigoneers Over Papaya Salad
My favorite genre of Saigon food places is most definitely address-less street vendors. With no name, no fixed location, no menu, no contact information, before Google Maps and smartphones, whether you can satisfy your craving for their food purely depended on the strength of your memory (to find them again) and the level of luck the universe bestowed on you that day.

Hẻm Gems: Wake up Early, We're Getting Hủ Tiếu Cá for Breakfast
When I used to live in Hanoi, I always knew that if an eatery only opens for half a day, the food is probably certified, at least by the locals, to be not only good, but excellent. There is something written in the local traditions that specific dishes should be served at particular times of the day.

By Preserving Tradition, Honoring Creativity and Showcasing Sustainability, Young Vietnamese Chefs Excel at Ngon Challenge by Marriott International
The glossy menus, sleek decor, and iconic logos of international hotel restaurants often obscure the human stories behind each dish. While catering to global guests, these restaurants often serve meals with origins in family kitchens and regional culinary traditions. Young, local chefs balance nostalgic associations with contemporary techniques and creative expression to create these menus. Returning for its second year this past September, Ngon Challenge continued to celebrate and nurture Vietnamese culinary talent across Marriott International’s hotels and resorts in Vietnam.

Sugar, Ice, and Everything Nice: On the Mekong Delta's Love for Trà Đá Đường
The pitcher of miền Tây-style sweet tea is like a boat ride taking me away from the exhaustion of the city back to the memories of my hometown amongst the canals of the Mekong Delta.

Kem Vi Bổn's Popsicles Anchor 70 Years of Saigon's Summer Memories
Saigoneers have always been blessed with a thriving ice cream scene, perhaps an inevitable perk of living in a city that’s rarely not scorching hot. Amid a thriving scene of inventive gelato and soft serve flavors, one frozen treat place has stood the test of time for nearly 70 years: Kem Vi Bổn.

Bình Thạnh’s Best Budget-Friendly Off-Menu Bánh Mì by the Canal
I trust the philosophy that, to find the best places to eat, look for those crowded with locals. Such logic would lead you to Xôi Thị Nghè near the five-way intersection close to Chợ Thị Nghè in the former Bình Thạnh District.

In Search of Charming Cafes Along Saigon's Train Alleys
Compared to Hanoi’s now-restricted Phung Hung “Train Street,” the neighborhoods bordering the railway in Saigon have neither the romanticism nor goosebumps-inducing adrenaline rush that turned the for...

Hẻm Gems: Lower Your Voice, the Hidden Elephant Is Reading
In Saigon’s indie cafe scene, there are household names and well-kept secrets; and then there are secrets that one might think are well-kept, but are actually household names.

Remembering Anthony Bourdain and His Passion for Southeast Asian Food
Anthony Bourdain meant many things to many people.

The Delectable Desserts to Satisfy Your Craving This Durian Season
If I were ever to believe in a generous god, the existence of durian would be the first piece of evidence I cite.

Upscale Fusion Fare Mingles with Japan’s Izakaya Culture at NOMU
What exactly is fusion food?

Saigon's Famous 'Lunch Lady' Set to Open in Canada
With help from the Lunch Lady herself, a team of restauranteurs in Vancouver is opening a dining establishment inspired by the humble Saigon street food stall made famous by the late Anthony Bourdain....

Hẻm Gems: In Praise of D1's Cheap, Dependable Sidewalk Cơm Trưa
In these trying times, the comfort of familiarity goes a long way.

Hẻm Gems: Handmade Noodles Hidden Amid the Mayhem of Hang Xanh
The traffic-choked wastelands of Hang Xanh are one of the last places you'd expect to find an incredible meal of noodles.

Hẻm Gems: The Refreshing Simplicity of Veggies, Roots and Mushrooms
Explaining the food at Rau Củ Nấm Vegan Restaurant is simple; it’s all in the name: vegetables, tubers, and mushrooms.

Saigon’s Culinary Diversity on Display at Kiba
Like a giddy child excited to show off his new toys, Chef Pedro Goizueta spread seed packages across a table on Kiba’s breezy terrace.

One's Expired Craft Beer Is Another's Hand Sanitizer Ingredient
Amid the relentless pace of upsetting news related to the coronavirus pandemic, bright spots of ingenuity and compassion have shone through.

[Photos] A Saigon Studio Made 'Cơm Tấm' Out of Discarded Styrofoam and Sponges
Are you tired of your trash looking plain-ol' trashy and your food too temporal and foody?

Afro Mini Mart: What's Inside Vietnam’s First African Grocery Store?
At first glance, it looks just like any other convenience store. The same strings of Oishi shrimp snacks and revolving wire rack of Orion Marine Boys adorn either side of its entrance, just as they do...

Ngõ Nooks: Sumptuous Vegetarian Ramen in a Quiet Truc Bach Hideaway
If you’ve ventured to the land of ramen, it’s likely you have a Japan hangover. Vege-ro’s authentic, rich meals could, for a while at least, help you recover.

[Illustrations] A Playful Look Into Vietnamese Ingredients by Lucia Pham
Lucia Pham has created a set of four illustrations of Vietnamese cuisine featuring whimsical, personified ingredients.

Hẻm Gems: Piquant Thai Noodles in D7 for the Age of Takeout
It's the simple things in life that sometimes bring the greatest pleasure.

Hẻm Gems: At Sadec Quan, a Celebration of Mekong Delta Noodles
While bánh tằm is more often regarded as a popular street food dish in the Mekong Delta, my entrance to the world of this dish was family gatherings in Saigon.

Ngõ Nooks: Vegetarian Fusion Food, Artwork and Leafy Surrounds All Feature in This Urban Oasis
In cacophonous cities like Hanoi, spaces that combine greenery with tranquility are vital.

Hẻm Gems: In Saigon's Greenest Cafe, a Rabbit, Cotton and Succulents Galore
On a windy autumn day of 2019, I did what any existentially precarious millennial would eventually do some time in their 20s: I bought a houseplant.

Ngõ Nooks: In Phủ Cafe, Community Engagement Brings a Sense of Belonging
Three flights of stairs separate the street from Phủ Café’s timeworn interior. Their small sign won’t grab your attention if you’re passing by, but attracting new customers isn’t necessarily the aim.




